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Guidebook for Vis

Simon

Guidebook for Vis

Food Scene
If you go out to dine only once when on Vis, this is the place. While almost all restaurants offers traditional dalmatian cuisine (typically grilled fish or lamb), Lola offers a more cross-over-ish food, set in a stunningly beautiful garden. Booking is necessary (text owner Ivica at +385955633246 and send Our best regards). If you don't want to splash out on a full dinner here (it is quite expensive by croatian standards - full a la carte w wine is approx 400 kn/pers), you should at the very least enjoy a drink at the wonderful cocktail terrace. Indeed, Lola would also be a first choice for us as a bar.
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Konoba Lola
12 Ul. Matije Gupca
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If you go out to dine only once when on Vis, this is the place. While almost all restaurants offers traditional dalmatian cuisine (typically grilled fish or lamb), Lola offers a more cross-over-ish food, set in a stunningly beautiful garden. Booking is necessary (text owner Ivica at +385955633246 and send Our best regards). If you don't want to splash out on a full dinner here (it is quite expensive by croatian standards - full a la carte w wine is approx 400 kn/pers), you should at the very least enjoy a drink at the wonderful cocktail terrace. Indeed, Lola would also be a first choice for us as a bar.
Luckily, our neighbors offer what’s surely the best pizza you will get in Croatia - owners Josip and Kiki are extremely careful about ingredients, importing mozarella, meats and tomato sauce directly from Italy. Relaxed atmosphere. Great for lunch (opens noon), and for nighttime, with beautiful views of the bay. Drinks included, approx 130 kn/pers
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Pizzeria Karijola
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Luckily, our neighbors offer what’s surely the best pizza you will get in Croatia - owners Josip and Kiki are extremely careful about ingredients, importing mozarella, meats and tomato sauce directly from Italy. Relaxed atmosphere. Great for lunch (opens noon), and for nighttime, with beautiful views of the bay. Drinks included, approx 130 kn/pers
This agro-tourist spot in Vis' inland valley is set on the wine farm of Roki. Very good food, great ecological wines (you may also buy directly from his cellar) - authentic and lively. Rerserve table by phone (+38598303483), or by visiting Roki's wine shop close to the ferry landing (100 m in direction of the monastry)
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Roki's
3 D117
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This agro-tourist spot in Vis' inland valley is set on the wine farm of Roki. Very good food, great ecological wines (you may also buy directly from his cellar) - authentic and lively. Rerserve table by phone (+38598303483), or by visiting Roki's wine shop close to the ferry landing (100 m in direction of the monastry)
Family-run restaurant, with very friendly staff, great atmosphere and wholesome and tasty food, most ingredients from the family garden. Dalmiatian mixed with more inland kitchen. Try the pasticada or the rumpsteak; the kids will love grilled potatos and chicken. Appr 200 kn/pers.
Kod Paveta
42 Ul. Ivana Farolfija
Family-run restaurant, with very friendly staff, great atmosphere and wholesome and tasty food, most ingredients from the family garden. Dalmiatian mixed with more inland kitchen. Try the pasticada or the rumpsteak; the kids will love grilled potatos and chicken. Appr 200 kn/pers.
Surely Vis' best restaurant for typical Dalmation dining - reserve a table in the wonderful indoor garden; or outside at the quay (text owner Ivan at +385922854818, send Our best regards). Superb grilled fish and lamb. Appr 400 kn/pers
Kantun
17 Ul. Biskupa Mihe Pušića
Surely Vis' best restaurant for typical Dalmation dining - reserve a table in the wonderful indoor garden; or outside at the quay (text owner Ivan at +385922854818, send Our best regards). Superb grilled fish and lamb. Appr 400 kn/pers
On par with Kantun, similar menu and prices. Set in a lush garibaldian sculpture garden just before you come to the old town (Kut).
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Villa Kaliopa
32 Ulica Vladimira Nazora
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On par with Kantun, similar menu and prices. Set in a lush garibaldian sculpture garden just before you come to the old town (Kut).
Beautiful setting in renaissance garden, in from the main square in Kut. Very good pizza, nice atmosphere. Also an excellent choice for drinks.
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Restoran Lambik
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Beautiful setting in renaissance garden, in from the main square in Kut. Very good pizza, nice atmosphere. Also an excellent choice for drinks.
Drinks & Nightlife
Just 200 m from the house, Frutarija is our absolute favorite! Sitting right on the sea, with marvellous view over the bay. Great drinks and juices, very romantic. Occasional jazz gigs at night. Also offers nice breakfast, great coffee.
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Bistro Frutarija
13 Ul. Viški Boj
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Just 200 m from the house, Frutarija is our absolute favorite! Sitting right on the sea, with marvellous view over the bay. Great drinks and juices, very romantic. Occasional jazz gigs at night. Also offers nice breakfast, great coffee.
This stunning fortress built during the Napoleonic wars is recently refurbished, with a good (but overpriced) restaurant, and a bar, occasional jazz and rock gigs. Don't miss it! Take a drink here in the velvet hour, very exciting for kids too. Get up there by taxi from the port (100 kn), 20 mins walk down to town afterwards. 2-3 nights a week, Fort George is also home to the spectacular Yacht Week parties, unrivalled in the Adriatic. If you have money to spend and want some young hedonism, you can enter by buying a season membership, extravangantly priced at 1000 kuna (!). But this IS as good a party as money can buy - contemporary Sodoma & Gomorrah... Contact us for more info
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Fort George Croatia
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This stunning fortress built during the Napoleonic wars is recently refurbished, with a good (but overpriced) restaurant, and a bar, occasional jazz and rock gigs. Don't miss it! Take a drink here in the velvet hour, very exciting for kids too. Get up there by taxi from the port (100 kn), 20 mins walk down to town afterwards. 2-3 nights a week, Fort George is also home to the spectacular Yacht Week parties, unrivalled in the Adriatic. If you have money to spend and want some young hedonism, you can enter by buying a season membership, extravangantly priced at 1000 kuna (!). But this IS as good a party as money can buy - contemporary Sodoma & Gomorrah... Contact us for more info
CORTO MAGARESE BAR: Just behind the old medieval tower by the start of the riva, in the tiny Ul Pod Kulom alleyway, sits this bohemian hole-in-the-wall bar with fleamarket chairs and tables across the small yard behind the Tower. Odd and Nice place!
Ulica pod Kulom
CORTO MAGARESE BAR: Just behind the old medieval tower by the start of the riva, in the tiny Ul Pod Kulom alleyway, sits this bohemian hole-in-the-wall bar with fleamarket chairs and tables across the small yard behind the Tower. Odd and Nice place!
During daytime and evening this is the not-so-charming hang-out for local gawkers and drinkers, set just across from the ferry landing. After midnight, however, when everything else closes, Bejbi turns into a swinging place where anyone may show up and anything can happen.
Bejbi Bar VIS
9 Ul. Stara Issa
During daytime and evening this is the not-so-charming hang-out for local gawkers and drinkers, set just across from the ferry landing. After midnight, however, when everything else closes, Bejbi turns into a swinging place where anyone may show up and anything can happen.
Parks & Nature
BEACHES, nearby: This is our favourite. Popular, but not as crowded as such a nice beach would be elsewhere. On the far side of the peninsula with the yellow villa, out by the entrance to the Vis bay. Walk via the old town (20 mins), bike/scooter (8 mins), or use the kayak (15 mins) to get there.
beach Grandovac
BEACHES, nearby: This is our favourite. Popular, but not as crowded as such a nice beach would be elsewhere. On the far side of the peninsula with the yellow villa, out by the entrance to the Vis bay. Walk via the old town (20 mins), bike/scooter (8 mins), or use the kayak (15 mins) to get there.
BEACHES, nearby: Just behind the monastry (on the small peninsula north of the ferry landing), this is the 'City Beach'. Nice and quite pretty - busy beach bar with air hockey and pool table. Great hang-out for families.
beach Prilovo
BEACHES, nearby: Just behind the monastry (on the small peninsula north of the ferry landing), this is the 'City Beach'. Nice and quite pretty - busy beach bar with air hockey and pool table. Great hang-out for families.
BEACHES, nearby - aka 'THE OLD TOWN BEACH': Just outside the Palazzo Mestrovic in Kut, this age old and narrow quay (begins where the yacht quay ends) offer a suprisingly peaceful spot for sunbathing and swimming. Most tourists fail to even discover it.
Obala kralja Krešimira
BEACHES, nearby - aka 'THE OLD TOWN BEACH': Just outside the Palazzo Mestrovic in Kut, this age old and narrow quay (begins where the yacht quay ends) offer a suprisingly peaceful spot for sunbathing and swimming. Most tourists fail to even discover it.
BEACHES - farther away: This is surely Vis' finest sandy beach. Perfect for kids. Only accessible via nice footwalk (10 mins), the upside being that it is rarely as crowded as its beauty would otherwise make it. A local konoba offers shade, drinks and snacks. When at Milna follow the trail around the cape into Zaglav bay. Drive/scooter to Milna (20 mins). Biking is a 30 mins ride - the first half is a tough climb up the serpentine road above Vis bay, but it offers great views and takes you through the beautiful vineyards and olive orchards of Vis' inner valley. Alternatively, taxi (150-200 kn)
Zaglav Beach
BEACHES - farther away: This is surely Vis' finest sandy beach. Perfect for kids. Only accessible via nice footwalk (10 mins), the upside being that it is rarely as crowded as its beauty would otherwise make it. A local konoba offers shade, drinks and snacks. When at Milna follow the trail around the cape into Zaglav bay. Drive/scooter to Milna (20 mins). Biking is a 30 mins ride - the first half is a tough climb up the serpentine road above Vis bay, but it offers great views and takes you through the beautiful vineyards and olive orchards of Vis' inner valley. Alternatively, taxi (150-200 kn)
BEACHES - farther away: If you visit Komiza, this is the best beach. Get there by walking southwards out of Komiza town. Perhaps the finest beach on the island, with a shady and well stocked beach bar, occasional 'full moon parties' at night. Young and hippie-ish crowd
Kamenice Beach
BEACHES - farther away: If you visit Komiza, this is the best beach. Get there by walking southwards out of Komiza town. Perhaps the finest beach on the island, with a shady and well stocked beach bar, occasional 'full moon parties' at night. Young and hippie-ish crowd
BEACHES - farther away: Named silver (srebrna) due to its very white pebble. Nice, shady beach bar. Often crowded. Get there by car/scooter (20 mins). By bike it is same as for Zaglav - tough but rewarding . Alternatively, taxi (150-200 kn)
Srebrna
BEACHES - farther away: Named silver (srebrna) due to its very white pebble. Nice, shady beach bar. Often crowded. Get there by car/scooter (20 mins). By bike it is same as for Zaglav - tough but rewarding . Alternatively, taxi (150-200 kn)
Essentials
WINE AND CRAFTS BEER: Don't buy wine in the supermarkets - it's hard to tell what's good from bad (and a lot is bad). Luckily, our dear neighbor and father of Jelena - Damir Radica - makes some of the best wines on Vis (also sold at many of the reaturants on Vis and in Zagreb), and is happy to 'wholesale' to our guests. Try the excellent red Plavac (esp. 2013), and the white blend Kolumbina (light and aromatic, unlike most whites on Vis). As it happens, Damir is also local partner of the Norwegian-Croatian crafts beer Privo Visko Pivo; try their Pale Ale, Saison, and the Hoppy Lager. To buy, ask Jelena, or Damir at +385911354442
Ulica Viški Boj
WINE AND CRAFTS BEER: Don't buy wine in the supermarkets - it's hard to tell what's good from bad (and a lot is bad). Luckily, our dear neighbor and father of Jelena - Damir Radica - makes some of the best wines on Vis (also sold at many of the reaturants on Vis and in Zagreb), and is happy to 'wholesale' to our guests. Try the excellent red Plavac (esp. 2013), and the white blend Kolumbina (light and aromatic, unlike most whites on Vis). As it happens, Damir is also local partner of the Norwegian-Croatian crafts beer Privo Visko Pivo; try their Pale Ale, Saison, and the Hoppy Lager. To buy, ask Jelena, or Damir at +385911354442
We do most of our groceries shopping on the small square by the entrance to Kut. Alongside the small Studenac supermarket, there is a good bakery and a small fruit/vegetable stall. There is also a new and better stocked Studenac by the near end of the riva, alongside the bigger (overpriced) fruit market.
Studenac
6 Ul. don Cvjetka Marasovića
We do most of our groceries shopping on the small square by the entrance to Kut. Alongside the small Studenac supermarket, there is a good bakery and a small fruit/vegetable stall. There is also a new and better stocked Studenac by the near end of the riva, alongside the bigger (overpriced) fruit market.
The better stocked supermarkets normally have most of the ready-packed meats you want. However, if you want a proper butcher's shop, then this is it.
Pivac
20 Šetalište Apolonija Zanelle
The better stocked supermarkets normally have most of the ready-packed meats you want. However, if you want a proper butcher's shop, then this is it.
FISHMARKET: The old fishmarket hall is next to the fruitmarket on the Riva. Paradoxically, it is not so easy to find fresh fish on Vis - most catch is sold directly to restaurants or to wholesalers in Split. Some is still sold from the fishmarket, though, but be unless you're there well before 8am, there won't be much left to choose from. (We long ago concluded that it's not worthwhile to cook/grill fish at home when we get so much better prepared fish in restaurants - but maybe if you are a great chef...)
Trg Karolina
FISHMARKET: The old fishmarket hall is next to the fruitmarket on the Riva. Paradoxically, it is not so easy to find fresh fish on Vis - most catch is sold directly to restaurants or to wholesalers in Split. Some is still sold from the fishmarket, though, but be unless you're there well before 8am, there won't be much left to choose from. (We long ago concluded that it's not worthwhile to cook/grill fish at home when we get so much better prepared fish in restaurants - but maybe if you are a great chef...)
The local PHARMACY. Just behind it is the Vis hospital
LJEKARNA SPLITSKO-DALMATINSKE ŽUPANIJE - LJEKARNA VIS
2 Vukovarska ul.
The local PHARMACY. Just behind it is the Vis hospital
Entertainment & Activities
OPEN AIR CINEMA, sits just across from restaurant Kod Paveta. Normally shows Hollywood blockbusters (not dubbed) and family Movies (dubbed). Even if the film on offer isn't the best, this is a 'cinema paradiso'-ish experience that you should not miss.
Ul. Ivana Farolfija 15
15 Ul. Ivana Farolfija
OPEN AIR CINEMA, sits just across from restaurant Kod Paveta. Normally shows Hollywood blockbusters (not dubbed) and family Movies (dubbed). Even if the film on offer isn't the best, this is a 'cinema paradiso'-ish experience that you should not miss.
Getting Around
By far the best place in town to RENT BIKES. Organises good tours, too.
Tourist agency VIS SPECIAL
33 Korzo ul.
By far the best place in town to RENT BIKES. Organises good tours, too.
Car rental
Navigator Travel Agency
2 Ul. Stara Issa
Car rental
IONIOS: car rentals, tour organiser
Obala Sv. Jurja 37
37 Obala Sv. Jurja
IONIOS: car rentals, tour organiser
RENT A BOAT. Primarily speed boats - can be rented with or without skipper. A day-trip around the island with skipper is approx 200 euros.
Vis Rent
3 Ul. Stara Issa
RENT A BOAT. Primarily speed boats - can be rented with or without skipper. A day-trip around the island with skipper is approx 200 euros.
PAIZ is where you buy tickets with the Katamaran to Split. Also organises collective taxi boats to Hvar, four days a week, 200 kn/person.
Tourist Agency Paiz Travel
PAIZ is where you buy tickets with the Katamaran to Split. Also organises collective taxi boats to Hvar, four days a week, 200 kn/person.
Sightseeing
KUT, the old town, is a major sight in its own right - you should spend an hour or two just wandering around/getting yourself lost in the small alleyways. Most of Kut was built while Vis was under Venetian rule (from ca 1500 until mid 1700s) - the Church of St Ciprijan being the chief focal point. Amongst other churches on Vis, the Od Spilica just next to our house is prominent; note the St Jeronima monastry just on the peninsula north of the port, and the stunning St Nikola Church and Monastry overlooking Komiza town.
Church St.Ciprijan and Justina
6 Obala kralja Krešimira
KUT, the old town, is a major sight in its own right - you should spend an hour or two just wandering around/getting yourself lost in the small alleyways. Most of Kut was built while Vis was under Venetian rule (from ca 1500 until mid 1700s) - the Church of St Ciprijan being the chief focal point. Amongst other churches on Vis, the Od Spilica just next to our house is prominent; note the St Jeronima monastry just on the peninsula north of the port, and the stunning St Nikola Church and Monastry overlooking Komiza town.
This small museum is located in the courtyard within the fortified castle close to the house; it exhibits antique greek vases recovered from the sea bottom in Vis bay - important remnants from days when Vis was under greek rule (hence the town's old name, Issa), and proof of its long involvement with viticulture. Nothing spectacular, but since it is so close it is well worth a 20 mins visit
Archeological Museum
12 Ulica Viški Boj
This small museum is located in the courtyard within the fortified castle close to the house; it exhibits antique greek vases recovered from the sea bottom in Vis bay - important remnants from days when Vis was under greek rule (hence the town's old name, Issa), and proof of its long involvement with viticulture. Nothing spectacular, but since it is so close it is well worth a 20 mins visit
On account of its strategic position in the Adriatic, and having been the first base of Tito's partisans during WWII, Vis was turned into a navy stronghold in Yugoslavia. Tito spent more than a billion dollars on military infrastructure here, including no less than 38 km of underground tunnels, submarine stations etc. The SUBMARINE TUNNEL in Rogacic is an obvious highlight. Tours are organised by VIS SPECIAL (see getting around)
Ex. Yugoslavian military shelter for submarines
On account of its strategic position in the Adriatic, and having been the first base of Tito's partisans during WWII, Vis was turned into a navy stronghold in Yugoslavia. Tito spent more than a billion dollars on military infrastructure here, including no less than 38 km of underground tunnels, submarine stations etc. The SUBMARINE TUNNEL in Rogacic is an obvious highlight. Tours are organised by VIS SPECIAL (see getting around)
While less spectacular than the blue cave on Bisevo, a trip to the Green Cave (on the small island Ravnik) may be just as enjoyable. It is also easier to get to: Take a taxi or bike/scooter/drive to Rukavac; there you can hop on one of the small taxi boats that takes you out to the cave (50-100 kn/person). It is best to go in the morning (e.g. around 09h00) - then you can easily take a swim inside the cave, or dive from the cliffs above/around it (bring bathing shoes as rocks around the cave are spiky). From noon and onwards, it gets very crowdy with sightseeing boats from Hvar. Once back in Rukavac, you may enjoy lunch at the good local konoba Dalmatino
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Green Cave
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While less spectacular than the blue cave on Bisevo, a trip to the Green Cave (on the small island Ravnik) may be just as enjoyable. It is also easier to get to: Take a taxi or bike/scooter/drive to Rukavac; there you can hop on one of the small taxi boats that takes you out to the cave (50-100 kn/person). It is best to go in the morning (e.g. around 09h00) - then you can easily take a swim inside the cave, or dive from the cliffs above/around it (bring bathing shoes as rocks around the cave are spiky). From noon and onwards, it gets very crowdy with sightseeing boats from Hvar. Once back in Rukavac, you may enjoy lunch at the good local konoba Dalmatino
Among the most prominent sights in Dalmatia. You can get there from Vis (again, rent a boat or hop on one of the tours), or do the same from Komiza. The cave gets extremely crowded in the day, so the best option is to convince a local skipper at Komiza to take you there. If you are adventurous, it is possible to access the cave from the outside, swimming in through the underwater opening (which is also what gives the cave its strange light). Bisevo has one of the prettiest beaches (Porat) in Dalmatia go
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Blue Cave
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Among the most prominent sights in Dalmatia. You can get there from Vis (again, rent a boat or hop on one of the tours), or do the same from Komiza. The cave gets extremely crowded in the day, so the best option is to convince a local skipper at Komiza to take you there. If you are adventurous, it is possible to access the cave from the outside, swimming in through the underwater opening (which is also what gives the cave its strange light). Bisevo has one of the prettiest beaches (Porat) in Dalmatia go